How to Install Rain Gutters
A step-by-step guide to a most diverting project
For homes in most regions of the country, rain gutters and downspouts are necessary to collect and carry away rainwater. Without them, water would erode the soil around the foundation, splash dirt onto the siding and likely leak into the basement or crawlspace.
Gutters are most often installed by professionals, but there's no reason you can't do it yourself. The all the materials and accessories are readily available at home centers, lumberyards and through roofing-supply firms. And if you're going to replace your gutters and downspouts, you may as well upgrade the entire look and performance of the rainwater system.
Here, we'll show how to install reproduction half-round gutters that are exact replicas of the size and style gutters found on older homes. This system features corrugated downspouts and decorative cast-aluminum brackets.
Many homeowners nurse their battered, leaky gutters along because they just don't see the reward of new gutters outweighing the effort required to replace them. That's why we enlisted Agustin Crookston, owner of Classic Gutter Systems in Kalamazoo, Michigan, to show how attractive gutters can be—and how easy to install. His company makes distinctive, half-round reproduction gutters, which have been featured on severa The dark-green aluminum gutters used here ($2.75 per linear foot, materials only) were attached to the fascia with cast-aluminum, closed-curl brackets ($8 each), which the homeowners spray-painted antique gold. At the ends of the gutters are 4-inch-diameter corrugated aluminum downspouts ($1.75 per linear foot), which were ordered in white to match the house trim.
To ensure that gutters drain properly, make certain they slope (½ inch for every 10 feet) toward a downspout. For gutter runs longer than 40 feet, it's best to pitch the gutter down from the middle to a downspout at each end. Or you can slope the gutters down from each end toward a single downspout placed in the middle of the run. Determine what works best for your house before ordering gutters and attachments.
Locate the rafter tails behind the fascia; they're typically spaced 16 inches on center (look for telltale nail heads).
Make a mark at the chalk line on every other rafter tail.
Bore a ⅛-inch-diameter pilot hole through the fascia and into the rafter tail at each mark.
Fasten fascia brackets with ¼-inch stainless steel lag screws long enough to penetrate rafters 2 inches (as shown).
Tip: Rub soap on the lag screws so they'll be easier to drive through fascia and into rafter tails.
Cut gutter section to length with hacksaw and aviation snips, or with a 12-inch power miter saw fitted with a carbide-tipped finish blade (as shown).
If the gutter continues around a corner, cut the appropriate angle (typically 45 degrees) on that end.
If the run requires two sections of gutter, overlap them by 8 inches and use 3/8-inch-long, self-tapping, stainless steel screws or pop rivets, in two rows of four each, to join them.
Tip: Locate screws or rivets in the sides of the gutter, never in the bottom.
At the square-cut end of the gutter, attach a spherical end cap with aluminum pop rivets. (If the gutter doesn't turn a corner, fasten an end cap to each end.)
To do this, hold the end cap in place temporarily with a single sheet-metal screw, then drill a 1/8-inch-diameter hole and install one pop rivet (above).
Remove the temporary screw and replace it with a rivet.
To ensure a watertight joint, seal the rivets and the end-cap seam on the inside of the gutter with a high-quality siliconized caulk.
Use a downspout outlet to mark the location of the downspout on the low end of the gutter.
To do this, turn the gutter upside down and place the outlet on top.
Trace around the inside of the outlet to mark the downspout hole on the gutter.
Drill a ¼-inch-diameter hole through the center of the circular outline.
Turn the gutter over and cut the downspout hole using a 4-inch-diameter hole saw chucked into a drill (as shown).
Lay the gutter into the brackets that you've lag-screwed to the fascia.
Rotate the gutter upward until its back edge slips into the hooks at the top of the back of the brackets (as shown).
Through the screw-mounting hole in each bracket, drill a 3/16-inch-diameter hole in the front edge of the gutter.
Secure the gutter to the bracket with a 1-inch-long #8-32 stainless steel machine screw and flanged nut.
Tip: Aluminum gutters and brackets can be spray-painted to match — or contrast with — the house trim.